I have. In fact I wrote most of it.
There isn't a whole lot of GObject code in Gnumeric. The dialogs are all made with Glade with C code to implement the things that happen when you push buttons. _That_ code wouldn't look at whole lot different in any other language.
The hairy parts of the Gnumeric code are (1) the dependency code that tracks which cells depend on which other cells, and (2) the quad tree used to store cell formatting. Neither is related to GObject and both would look roughly the same if written in C++.
Re. refactoring: our graph engine has long been factored out and is used in other applications.
That said, I do agree that Gtk+ and the never-ending stream of ABI breaks and "deprecations" that come with it is a pain. I think that's a problem with the current set of Gtk+ maintainers more than with Gtk+ itself.
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