We use LedgerSMB, but we cheat... our accountant re-enters everything into his proprietary system when it comes time to filing official tax returns.
LedgerSMB has another gotcha: We are on 1.2.x and as far as I can see, there is simply no upgrade path to the current 1.3.x. I've tried the upgrade several times and each time it has failed miserably. Also, 1.3.x relies on PostgreSQL to manage users: The application user is expected to be exactly the same as the database user. I understand the LedgerSMB team's motivation (put all the user management in the database and you can ensure one and only one place for permission checking), but it's a real PITA for us to run that way.
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