xpdf also supports (this is not mentioned?) showing a table of contents in the left-hand side of the window. The small box in the lower left corner of the window can be dragged right, opening a window that contains the TOC for the document. This should usually appear by itself when the PDFs have these. Not having a navigation side bar is bearable, and I find xpdf to be the best of the PDF-viewers I've tried so far.
I do agree though, that kpdf shows promise and they seem to be hard at work to make it the premier free PDF-viewer, underlined by their logo contest.
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